Archive for July, 2009

Lochs and locks

Friday, July 31st, 2009

Caledonian Canal lock staircase

I realize that I don’t take similar, immersive relationship with the surrounding as I would, if I was on a holiday. I absorb it and enjoy it, but at the same time I am conscious about the transit mode. It would be great to stay in the lakes, but we are really just wanting to pass through and get to Belfast.

The story goes that the engineer, Thomas Telford was on the Loch Oich at the highest point of the canal and realized that water was going two directions. Instead of such Heureka moment, it is likely that the canal was simply commissioned. Built in the early 19th century in only 7 years period by mostly Irish workers, it is a remarkably functioning system for small craft today, even if it never succeeded in becoming a commercial success.

There are signs: please do not empty your bilge while in the canal. It seems that in these waters, boats and ships dump their waste to the sea without thinking about it twice. Awareness for that is improving in the Baltic Sea, but it is a big issue to tackle.

We stay docked in Gairlochy, and take a late evening off to go listen to local band in Glenn Finnan hotel.

Thursday 30th July

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

Gate watchman Off at 09h00 sharp and into the sea lock of the Caledonian Canal where we interview the Lock keeper who is very friendly and informative.  The canal system is well organised and very carefully maintained ~ fantastic to experience heritage as a working and functional environment.

We proceed slowly through series of swing bridges, lock gates and wooded canalised waterway sections that finally open into Loch Ness which is an extraordinarily beautiful stretch of deep water bounded by rugged wooded hills ~ this is the beginning of the Great Glen, a natural fault line that bisects Scotland diagonally between Inverness and Fort William.

The crew of course are more interested in the virtual world, Tapio and Mike (and even the skipper Lars) are below, on-line ~ I am the analogue boy preferring to handwrite and draw up on deck.

Dreaming of sighting the Monster and a single malt when we dock this evening!   We tie up in Fort Augusta at the Northern end of Loch Ness, no Monster but the single malt is highly possible as the lock sides are lined with comfy bars which we loiter in too long and miss dinner ~ having to make do with fish and chips!

No monster under water

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

Datalogger of the YSI600XL Sonde Loch Ness and the joining town of Fort Augusta are surprisingly open spaces; I was expecting tourism to dominate the environment more. Instead, mostly there’d be cyclists and kayakers, besides people on boats. All in all it is fairly quiet - until extremely loud jets roam over the lake, and a tourist speed boat shoots out onto it. From the perspective of aquatic life, I become increasingly aware of acoustic ecology in its environmental sense; how does the noise pollution impact different organisms, has it been studied?

This study suggests that marine mammals suffer from, besides changes in orientation, also direct tissue damage. The monster does not live under water, it always turns out to be the human practices that do not consider the bigger picture.

Nigel Helyer, hydrophone recordings Nigel and I do a test run with the sonde on a little dinghy to the lake, also taking hydrophonic sound samples. We head onwards on the canal - the surrounding landscapes are beautiful. Spruce, pine and birch trees seem familiar from back home. Mountain ranges resemble Norway in their former volcanic shapes and worn surfaces.

Inverness

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

Caledonian Canal lock gates Having reached Invernesse, I was relieved of the fact that a storm front on the North Sea would pass behind us the next day, and we would be in the Caledonian Canal when strong winds would wipe over the Irish Sea. The 2-3 days in the canal would also be the first time we could work, and discuss project detail in a concentrated mode. The paradox would be the incredible scenery, and the need to put content together and manage other aspects of the project.

We went through the sealock, greeted by a nice watchman, and progressed to Loch Ness via several locks and turning bridges.

Coast of Scotland

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

Dolphins at Inverness

Coast of Scotland flows beautifully by. With good Southern winds we decide not to have a break but head straight to Invernesse. Waves are big, and carry us forward. Another night of sailing. Meanwhile, we learn more how to use the plotter, to adjust sails. Usually at 12 m/s we start to reduce the main sail by one notch, and for night time when winds blow at 14 m/s by two.

I take the first water quality readings in fairly open sea, still not strongly affected by the water coming from river Ness. Using a YSI 600XL sonde, I record dissolved oxygen, ORP, pH, temperature, salinity, and conductivity. The data we will extract from the logger later on, and we are likely not to use the first sample, as we will not have a chance to compare it with nearby samples.

We arrive to Invernesse’s bay, Firth, with Dolphins swimming along, and big seals sunbathing on the beach in large colonies. The landscape is very beautiful. We resupply in Invernesse, have a night of working at computers til late.

Wednesday 29th July

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

Inverness We continue to work up the East coast the air is extraordinarily clear, as is the sea.  The coastline looks beautiful and dotted with small settlements as we gradually track to the West into the Firth of Inverness where we plan to moor overnight before entering the Caledonian Canal.

We are accompanied by pods of Dolphin up the Firth which I take as a good omen and finally berth in a small and brand new marina just west of the suspension bridge.  The marina has a distinctly Nordic population, our Danish flag fluttering alongside Norwegian and Swedish pennants; there is even a sailing replica of a Norse longship on our jetty, a reminder of the cultural heritage of these islands ~ it is only a two day sail to Norway from here.

We re-supply in Inverness and spend the evening on-board preparing work schedules and equipment.

In the middle

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

The first sight of land around Aberdeen! Then appears a mobile network to share location, which in this case is relevant for knowing we made it across. We would have sailed otherwise further up North, but getting more coastal seems wise. Pretty sizeable waves roar behind the boat, which surfs down the waves and with the wind. A bit of sunshine, and everyone is starting to feel better. I realized that the rocking motion is nothing, but draft in the cabin did my neck rather sore. I am also getting some more text and typing done on a computer, but reading is out of the question still.

During night Nigel saw possibly a whale swoosh by the boat.

Tuesday 28th July

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

Neptune is still demanding his pound of flesh but I am getting on top of the nausea and can begin to focus again.  The solo night watches are have sublime moments with phosphorescence streaming out from the twin transoms and large wracks of rain filled cloud looming over the horizon.

On the midnight to 02h00 watch a serious spate of hand steering as the ship roars dead downwind, sails set Goose-wing and big lumpy breaking rollers piling up from behind pushing her this way and that.   Finally we spy the Scottish coastline and follow it northwards keeping a sharp lookout for the coastal and oil-rig traffic centred about Aberdeen.

Mike volunteers to make a pasta and I realise that I am starving and actually want to eat, even though the idea makes me nervous.  I manage to keep it down and am glad that the boat motion in the following seas is quite different than the rocking horse effect when going straight into it!

Grayscaling

Monday, July 27th, 2009

IMG_0047 One enters a mode where seeing an oil drilling platform is a treat, a change in the grey horizon. When there is no land in sight, the sea takes on a greyscale nature in wet weather, with winds whipping the sailors, yet the boat also forward with relatively good speed. It gives also time to reflect what it means to physically move across this rather small water, the North Sea, in relation to taking a plane to the other side of the world. In a way, this could be a sustainable future way of travel, perhaps with a technology upgrade. Nevertheless, one feels physical proportions in different scales, and travel means also more like work, rather than dosing off on a chair and waking up somewhere else.

I try to keep spirits up and food down, thus I make great ginger carrot soup, a receipe from Nina Czegledy. A bit improvised for the sea, but does the trick. First day or two we used up green salads and barbaqued some chicken, marinated Indian style, cooked with Pasilla chillies I had brought along (sauteed in some red wine)… and boosted by green chillies.

At this point I have to admit that I have some concerns too, as I had thought that the boat has weather information system, which it does not. Would the weather change quickly, we would have no idea, except when it hits us. So I put down on my shopping list a Nasa weatherfax receiver. Just in case. I had thought we’d have HF modem to make minimal connection with land, but instead, we rely on 3G coastal access.

Winds range from 8-9 m/s to 12-15 m/s, waves 1-2 meters mostly. Think it was around 17 m/s on the coast, and in gales (as we also hit a thunder storm area) perhaps a bit more.

Monday 27th July

Monday, July 27th, 2009


Out of sight of land and virtually no shipping now that we have left the North German and Dutch coastal lanes.  Short grey swell at 2 metres and plenty of sea birds are our only company.

Neptune has taken possession of my body, I can’t even keep a few Knackebrodt down and cannot stomach going below to my cabin in the Portside hull, so off watch I lie on a couch in the main salon.  A fatigue induced delirium sets in ~ I can still force myself to stand my watches but do not have the energy for anything else, even simple thought is a real task.